Karl Rice's dream of exploring Pakistan-Occupied Kashmir on his Indian-made Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycle failed before it really got going.
The New Zealand YouTube personality, better known as Karl Rock online, left New Delhi on his trip in August before attempting to cross the Attari-Wagah border in the northwestern Indian state of Punjab.
Pakistani officials at the border rejected his request to enter the country on an off-road motorcycle manufactured in India.
Rice was left crestfallen by the decision.
"If it had been registered overseas, I could've taken it," he said.
"It was the perfect motorcycle for the trip, and I was hoping that bike would be a nice conversation starter, so I was really disappointed when they stopped me at the border."
Leaving the motorcycle with a friend to ride back to New Dehli, Rice crossed into Pakistan on foot and headed to Lahore before travelling further north to Islamabad.
Renting a motorcycle in Pakistan's capital, Rice travelled through Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan-Occupied Kashmir before reaching the Khunjerab Pass at the Chinese border - the highest international crossing in the world at 4693 metres above sea level.
It was the destination he had set out to reach after travelling more than 600 kilometres on the back of a motorcycle.
Rice documented every part of the journey through "unforgettable" mountainous terrain, sharing it with the 3 million subscribers who follow his YouTube channel.
Karl Rice travelled by motorbike from India to Pakistan-Occupied Kashmir in August. Photo: Supplied
Rice is a Hindi-speaking Kiwi living in India who shares his experiences on the subcontinent with audiences in New Zealand and around the world through videos and blog posts.
Rice said the trip wasn't without its challenges, especially when it came to security in the Kashmir region.
The region is one of the most militarized zones in the world due to long-standing tensions between nuclear-armed neighbours India and Pakistan.
"I was always a bit worried my trip might be cut short due to my ties with India," he said. "I speak Hindi and Urdu, and I was honest about my India connection. The security forces were okay with it."
Despite the cross-border tensions, most people Rice encountered on his trip simply wanted to know more about each other's countries.
"There was no hatred - just a sense of brotherhood," he said.
Karl Rice poses for a photograph at Khunjerab Pass, the highest international border crossing in the world. Photo: Supplied
A passion for India
Rice, who grew up in the South Auckland suburb of Pakuranga, has long had a fascination with India.
"It started when I was 17 or 18," he recalled. "Food was the gateway. It was the first time I'd experienced such complex and flavourful dishes."
This sparked a broader interest in Indian culture, leading him to Bollywood movies and, eventually, learning the Hindi language.
After being made redundant from a role in the music industry, Rice used his savings to visit India for the first time in 2012.
"India is so vast and chaotic compared to New Zealand, but you come to realize that the chaos is organized," he said.
Rice married Indian national Manisha Malik in 2019 and now resides in New Delhi.
"When you marry into an Indian family, you become their son," he said. "It was surprising to see how strong that bond is, compared to the more individualistic culture back home in New Zealand."
Karl Rice and his wife, Manisha Malik. Photo: Supplied
Travel challenges
Rice's life in India hasn't always been easy.
In October 2020, his spouse visa was cancelled after authorities reportedly accused him of being engaged in business activities. Rice was blacklisted from entering India for 500 days.
"That was the most difficult time of my life, being separated from my wife and family," he said.
He returned to India in March 2022.
Rice hopes to stay in the South Asian nation for as long as possible and encourages others to experience India for themselves.
"For your first trip, I recommend starting with a guided tour like the Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra and Jaipur," he advised. "It's the perfect introduction to India and its history. After that, if you feel comfortable, travel solo. You'll be fine."
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